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Wednesday, 30 March 2016

Embroidered Ginger Jeans Part 1

First I must confess that I started these jeans back in October last year...taking slow to a whole new level here!

I'm sure everyone is familiar with the Ginger Jeans from Closet Case Patterns, and as a disclaimer I should add that I received the pattern free as a tester, but I wouldn't have made like 7 pairs if I didn't love the pattern off of its own merit! (I probably have mentioned it before but I haven't posted in such a long time, and can't be bothered to check back to see if I did)

For the yet again failed FESA sew along, I listed making two replacement pairs of Gingers, and used some really great broken twill denim off eBay, such great quality, and no twisty legs woohoo!

So then I had one of my slightly infamous 3am ideas - anyone else get these?! - and decided that I simply had to have skulls embroidered on my butt pockets. Because they're skulls and it's me. So a bit of googling revealed that it was a thing, a couple of US brands did skull butt jeans, and a bit of pinteresting threw up a few choice designs. I purchased one from Urban Threads (who are cheap and wonderful and will have whatever embroidery you're looking for!) and sized it up and printed it off. I decided for the sake of needing some to wear immediately I would make up one pair as normal, and since the embroidery completion was glacial it was a smart move!

As I was using black denim (obviously) I needed to use the tissue paper method to stitch my design as the pockets needed to be mirrored as identically as possible so risking free hand was not an option. I traced the designs onto tissue paper that was slightly thicker than usual, not sure what it came with, it is a bit like that really terrible toilet roll at school that was like tracing paper.

 I just tacked the tissue paper down to stop it shifting. I chose to use two shades of grey, a lighter one for the skull part, and a darker one for the swirly bit to the side. The pockets were interfaced so there was no risk of stretching out.


Once it was finished I pulled through the tacking stitches. Then I very naively thought I would pull the tissue paper off in one piece. I have no idea what kind of brain glitch was responsible for that idiocy because as I'm sure you will all realise, it looked like this...


 Doh! So out came the tweezers, and eventually I got all the bloody stuff out!



So at this stage it was December, not too bad! Queue second pocket being finished in March. This is why I went ahead and finished the other pair, I know myself well enough to know that no matter how much I *had* to go through with my idea,it would take me forever to actually get finished.




Well, the finished pair are pretty much identical in design and spacing. I do wish I had done them a bit further in though. It looks better when all the edges are folded inwards so on the finished pair they don't look too odd.

Part two will show the finished jeans.

Have you ever incorporated embroidery into your handmade clothing? If so would you do it again or was once enough?!


Thursday, 24 March 2016

February Reading

Another book post - sorry! This post was just finished before any sewing related ones, I swear I'm not turning into a literature blog :)
February was also a seven book month, so I'm very much on target for a 52 book year!


Affliction by Laurell K Hamilton was the first book of Feb, and it was over 700 pages long! I used to be a huge fan of the Anita Blake series but my interest began to wane when the books began to be kinda rubbish and the sex got a bit ridiculous. I saw the three books I don't own in the library and thought I would give them a go. Affliction included the character Edward who I really like, and a book with him in is always better than without. I don't think it was the worst LKH book, but the conclusion to the story was shoved into 10 or so pages as an afterthought almost. An easy semi-enjoyable read that could have been so much better id Anita kept her legs shut more.

Jason by Laurell K Hamilton
is basically a story about LKH's personal life. I wish I had known it was not in any way integral to the ongoing story line and not read it. It was so cringy and 99% of it was about sex, and the sex scenes were really poorly written. In conclusion LKH has an unusual romantic set up, good for her, please stop releasing thinly veiled books that tell us about it.

Dead Ice by Laurell K Hamilton was, much like Affliction, a semi enjoyable read spoiled by terrible sex scenes and an ending pushed into the last 10 pages as an afterthought. A shame because it could have been really good, like the original ones were. It may only irritate me but I think that the amount of things added so someone could understand the plot if they hadn't read the series is way too much. If you pick up book 24 in a series you should expect there to be a few head scratchers. I do not need a description of each character like I have never "met" them before!

Sharp Objects by Gillian Flynn - No Gone Girl but it was good. The story is about a journalist who is forced to return to her home town to cover the story of a missing little girl, a year or so after a little girl was found murdered. I thought some parts of the story were unnecessary, in particular the extent to which the character Camille has self harmed. Not that it isn't feasible, just felt it was unnecessary to go so extreme with it as the plot has a lot going on anyway.

Waste by Tristram Stuart is a fantastic book. It may be a few years old, but much of it is still very relevant today. The scale at which we waste food from the field, through to the supermarket, through to our homes, is astounding. We should be ashamed of ourselves. I have a bit of research to do to see if things that were promised to be in place after the book was finished, but before the present date, were upheld, but as a general picture of the issue it hits the spot. It will make you much more thoughtful about your own wastage, and if that is all it achieves then still worthwhile in my opinion.

A Girl Is A Half-formed Thing by Eimear McBride - This was a short but very powerful book! I read the novel version as opposed to the version adapted for the stage, but I can definitely see why the theatre showing this has had audience members walk out. Very raw portrayal of a young Irish woman's life, the text starts off slightly nonsensical as the language is not only free running but changes with the age in question. Not something that bothered me but some may find it difficult to get into.

Beautiful You by Chuck Palahniuk
- I found this book to be completely hilarious! The not so gentle or subtle mockery of 50 Shades of Grey (I haven't read it but any one who has heard reviews of the book will not fail to get Palahniuk's game here) and the outlandish scenarios make for a short but satisfying read. It has been a long accepted fact that many men find nude women/pornography distracting, so it was refreshing to have a satirical tale of women becoming overwhelmed by sexual desire.

So readers, any of these taken your fancy? Or any you have read and enjoyed/not enjoyed?

Friday, 4 March 2016

January Reading

Happy Friday!

This is one of the new posts I am going to be doing monthly as a nice way to track my reading month by month (I do track books read on Pinterest each year) and perhaps introduce readers to a new book along the way!

So in January I read seven books:



Elizabeth Is Missing by Emma Healey was the January Lincon WI book group choice, and although I did not make it to the book group I still read the book and was surprised to enjoy it! Most months I do not particularly enjoy the books, so it is really nice when I do. Very briefly the book is based around Maud who has dementia, and the stories of her sister going missing in the 1940's, and her friend Elizabeth who Maud believes is missing in the present day.

Outcast Volume 2: A Vast and Unending Ruin by Kirkman & Azaceta
Graphic novels are one of my favourite things to indulge in, I love the stories and the artwork, and the innovative story telling. Outcast's main protagonist is Kyle Barnes who has been plagued with demonic possession his entire life. His "sidekick" is Reverend Anderson, and together they are trying to work out just what the hell (excuse the pun) is going on.

Haunted by Chuck Palahniuk was something I struggled to get into. I think it was the separate stories within the main story that  was the issue for me. The story is based around a group of writers who sign up to a writer's retreat and they go a bit insane. I think I would have enjoyed it more if it was just the short stories, or just the story of the writers. I liked many parts of it but as a whole I found it a bit of a slog.

You by Caroline Kepnes A bit late on the bandwagon (as usual!) but I enjoyed the book a lot. I found that the "victim" was unlikable to a greater extent to the creepy perpetrator Joe whose eyes you see the story through. I liked the stalker's perspective, and going through the story with his twisted view on things. Also makes you want to lock down your social media. Be careful in book stores ladies and gents!

The Collector by John Fowles
was perhaps not the wisest choice to read straight after You! It follows the story of a man who is obsessed with a young woman, and when he comes into some money he kidnaps her thinking she will grow to love him. I loved the first part of the book as told through his eyes, but found the second part as told through the diary of the girl to be a bit irritating. A good read, but the second part could have been better.

Low: The Delirium of Hope by Remender & Tocchini is the first Image release I have found a bit "meh". There is nothing wrong with the story as such, I just didn't go for it personally. It is set in a world where global warming has destroyed the protective ozone layer and humans have had to colonize the depths of the oceans to survive. Spoiler alert: We are still dicks to each other even after all that has happened.

The Devil in the Marshalsea by Antonia Hodgson was the February Lincoln WI book group choice. This one I did not like. Even though it is based on historical documents I found it to be a bit preposterous. Thomas Hawkins is a spoilt arse who ends up in the debtors jail "The Marshalsea". There are some spooky goings on and Thomas is forced to get to the bottom of it. I'm not one for historical books, or crime/mystery books, and it seemed to be enjoyed most by those who were a fan of Dickens (I'm not).


So I hope that didn't bore anyone to death! If you have read any of these books/graphic novels let me know what you think.

Tuesday, 1 March 2016

So It's March...

...And I have been demonstrably absent since September. Life got busy, at points a little too busy.

I have kept up reading blogs, and thinking about this one. I was tempted to just scrap it and start again but there's no point. I do however have to make some changes round here, I clearly cannot just blog about sewing as I make only a small amount of garments a year. I hope that any readers will be ok with a shift to a slightly broader range of topics.

I now do instagram which I am much more frequently posting on than here, and if you'd like to check it out I can be found under the user name of Ms_Melancholy

More posts are in the works, but for now -



Edited because I wrote February and it is actually March - What a dumbass!

Monday, 21 September 2015

Fall Essentials Sew Along (FESA)



I had already half written a post about my sewing plans when the announcement for FESA popped up in my blog roll so I decided to scrap that and join in.

I participated last year (on my old blog) and even though I didn't get all my planned items finished I also didn't do too badly either. For those who aren't familiar, the sew along is the brainchild of Sarah who blogs over at Rhinestones and Telephones which is where you will find out the full details of the sew along categories.

Having had a good think about it, I have decided upon a few definites, and a few "if I get the time" items.


Fabulous Foundations For Frosty Weather:


Closet Case Patterns Ginger Jeans
Simplicity 2700 (source)

I have the denim pre-washed and ready to use for two pairs of Gingers. My remaining full leg length pair finally went pop and wore through at the thighs so replacements are a must. I decided to make two at once since it is most definitely trouser weather here now and I should wash them more often than I do (yeah that's a bit gross I know).

If I get time I will make another pair of the Simplicity 2700 amazing fit trousers. Not sure if I have anything in the stash suitable and I am loathe to use my precious yardage of herringbone linen on them.

Chic Chemises For Cooler Climates:

(source)
I guess this one is a bit of a cheater... I have two blouses basted together that have been dumped in a basket for several months that I will be finishing, they were cut at the same time as my beloved polka dot blouse from the pattern I bodged together.

I also have an unfinished New Look 6212. I have no idea why I thought this was a good pattern to purchase, I was swayed by being able to use up some of my chiffon stash. Aaaand I didn't notice there were no bust darts for shaping. I have the main body of version B sewn up, Just the collar and button plackets left (I don't want the pockets) but I am going to have to do french seamed fish eye darts in the front for a last ditch attempt at salvaging this. I look hideously enormous with no shaping.


Fabulous Frocks:

(Source)

I will make no secret of the fact I will always love this pattern. It may not be the popular shirt dress of the blogosphere but I can't get enough of it! I have made 5 dresses and 3 blouses from it so far - that may not sound like much but I am a more conservative sewist than some so proportionally it is a lot.

I have some black flannel lined up for a 1/2 or 3/4 length puff sleeved, full skirted, cozy winter dress.


Underneath It All:

I intend to make a half slip from some suitable black fabric found lurking in my stash. It must have been hidden there for over 7 years! If I have the yardage in my stash I will pop a lace trim on the bottom, if not it will remain plain.


Tender Tootsies:

I would be optimistic if I said I will knit some socks, but I would like to at least start a pair.


Those Cozy Nights:

Does a hot water bottle cover count? Can't commit to it entirely but it is something I have been meaning to get around to doing. A good way to practice some Intarsia or Fair Isle techniques.


Baby It's Cold Outside:


(source)
(source)

























This is the most important category to get done! I have a hoodie, and a thick men's cardigan to serve me as outerwear. I muslined up the Leanne Marshall coat last December and was short on fabric to make the long version. I may see if I can fit the short length version on my existing yardage. If not I will have to look at putting aside some cash for some new fabric, or finding a different pattern.

I have fabric and notions for the Cordova jacket, I just need to print off the pattern and faff around with grading it up and a fba. Which is a less than thrilling series of events. I also intend to lower the neckline into a V, for no reason other than I would prefer it that way.


So those are my grand plans, 10 garments, 2 knitted items. I may add a cardigan or sweater to the list if I have all the correct needles/notions/yarn in my stash. I think a myrna is a possibility, I can always frog my badly fitting one if I need extra yarn. As this is fall essentials I won't include any plans for a Christmas dress, not that I really need one.

How is everyone else doing with their plans?

Friday, 11 September 2015

"Lady Skater" Style Dress From SBCC Tonic Tee

Happy Friday folks!

Last week I finally got round to taking some photos of my Lady Skater rip off dress, and of the billion taken a few were not entirely terrible even if I do have a touch of the "about to start impersonating Michael Flatley" kinda vibe in them.

I made this dress in April, I wanted a new dress to wear for my birthday so most likely I started it in good time....the day before ;)

Sleeping or looking at something interesting on the floor - you decide!
I lightened the pics to aid in actually seeing a black garment, and yes, knickers and bra also match...

So I started off with the SBCC Tonic Tee pattern and scooped out the neck at the front and back, then shortened it to hit at my natural waist. I may have measured it, or just put a bodice pattern on top to compare lengths, it was a while ago and I can't remember exactly.


I feel like the princess of darkness with these glorious sleeves!

There look to be drag lines in this pic but I'm not sure if it is the position of my arm. I drafted some facings for the neck and it sits pretty well. I sewed down the back facing but not the front and it stays in place fine without flipping. I have noticed a bit of gaping in the neckline in some positions so I would consider a bit of clear elastic in the seam in future. I used the sleeves I made up for some other garment, possibly for the Lisette Traveller dress. I really need to invest in some hilarious 80's patterns for some statement sleeve goodness, I L-O-V-E puffy, gathered, ruched, layered, pleated, bold sleeves. It's just a thing...I cant help it! I put a little lace over the shoulder seams for added interest too.

Is that a donut over there?
I believe I used the skirt pieces for the Lisette Traveller dress which is just a gathered A line. I will have shortened it from the top to increase the gathers and keeping the width at the bottom. I used clear elastic in the waist seam but my overlocker just seemed to push it out from under the foot whenever possible, and my sewing machine hates it too. I would try using a regular elastic next time perhaps. I'm not sure if there is better clear elastic available but the "Hemline" brand stuff which is all I seem to be able to get my hands on is pretty wide and a bit rubbery, not like the stuff I have seen used in RTW. If youknow of a UK source for that type of clear elastic please tell me!


This kinky shot reveals the special surprise of this fabric - it is grey on the other side! The fabric is a double sided ponte, gloriously thick and soft, and had I known how nice it was I would have ordered more! If I had put more thought into it I could have made the dress reversible, but lets face it, I would not wear such a light grey! As you can see I just overlocked the edge and sewed a small hem.

Overall I am thrilled with this dress, and now the temperature has dropped again I look forwards to wearing it more often - although really in England it is only July and perhaps a week either side where it is too hot for anything other than a flimsy sun dress. It could do with being taken in an inch either side of the bodice, but now it is in my wardrobe I am less inclined to mess about with it, a belt suffices to be honest.

This was an easy "hack", and I recommend it wholeheartedly if you haven't purchased the Lady Skater and don't mind a tiny bit of work making the facing pattern pieces....and y'know it's cheaper!

Enjoy your weekend!

Tuesday, 1 September 2015

Project Wardrobe: The (Late) Half Year Update



Well 3 months late isn't too shoddy hey?! I will only talk about items here that were made, to the best of my knowledge, before June. After that the items will feature in my S/A plans.



Where we left off earlier this year I detailed the current state of my wardrobe, and also my W/S sewing plans. I actually got through most of those with the exception of the Bruyere rip off and the gingham dress refashion. I also had additional projects planned out because of an unexpected holiday to Turkey. A quick survey of my wardrobe suggests I have made the following:

1 x polka dot blouse
4 x SBCC tonic tee
14 x Rosy Lady Shorts (including 3 "sexy" pairs)
1 x Lady Skater style dress
1 x Ginger Jeans
1x Ginger Jeans capri length
1 x Lace trim tank
1 x Hippo dress to lace trim tank refashion
1 x dress to skirt refashion
2 x cropped length leggings

A total of 27 new items! I think I need to sit down with shock!

I can explain the 14 pairs of pants, or 11 not including the three experimental lace pairs, as a holiday necessity...it was an 8 day holiday, plus I needed a pair for the day either side, and a pair for the day after we got back and my other pants were in the wash. So I made 7 pairs of knickers specifically to make up this number. I have also rag bagged the old RTW knickers that were all ill fitting/had holes. It makes me laugh that I now only have plain black knickers (with different coloured elastics) in my undie drawer, even if it was only because I was using black jersey from my stash.

The cropped leggings were sadly too short in the waist, and a little tight. Made for holiday, well traveled, never worn. I will wait until I have shed a few pounds and then remove the existing elastic and add some more jersey and a new waistband. Nobody will be looking at that part of them so I'm not worried about weird seaming.

The full length Gingers are almost worn through at the thighs now, the capris were a juicy bonus as I made them using the leftover denim from my first and second gingers (same denim from the same place) so they felt like a freebie! I didn't have enough to put back pockets on but I don't mind. They fit a bit snug in the waist due to the combined effects of woven facing and the waistband being cut on the non stretch grain. I thought that it wouldn't matter as I always used a non stretch facing before, but it does make them a little bit tighter.

Wearing my black lace strap tank and Ginger capris in Turkey. Trying to surreptitiously get photo with the camel!

I'm super pleased with the grey dress refashion, that jersey has made a lovely tank, so slinky, very flattering to wear. The dress to skirt refashion is not so hot. Considering donating it.

The Lady Skater style dress is well worn, not for the warmer months, and would change a  few things if I made another. The SBCC tees are 50-50. the two I made first were in a bad choice of jersey and a little short in front. I think it looks quite trendy, but I prefer more coverage. Second two were made longer but I would actually still add a bit more length.

Star of the show is the blouse. I bodged a pattern for it out of the New Look pattern my tartan dress was made from. It wasn't precise, or perfect, but the resulting blouse is in constant rotation. Only problem is I forgot to interface the button bands and two of the lower buttons come open occasionally. I could sew the placket up to eliminate this if I wanted to as I can get the blouse on and off without undoing it.
Terrible mirror selfie on holiday! Love my blouse though <3

As far as existing wardrobe items are concerned, there are a few I am considering getting rid of, but not a huge amount. I think that a sizable amount will go in the new year though. A few of my RTW tops are now getting to the past it entirely stage, I also purchased a kaftan from Sainsburys which was ok in Turkey, but is too holiday item looking for me to put on at home. They had no black the buttheads. I have also purchased a fine knit cardigan as an emergency item for a job. I like it a lot so actually have little buyers remorse. I can't knit a cardi that fine, and sewing one would probably look like a dogs dinner for my first few attempts.

How is every one else doing with following sewing plans?